Thursday, July 29, 2010

from Ian Micler, Africa Geographic Magazine


Last Year I had the pleasure to meet Ian Michler when he arrived to Luwire Safaris fresh from a visit to the states where he had been on holiday and had experienced several delays and missed flights on his way to to us to lead a Birding Safari via African Geographic there, in and around the Niassa Reserve. Consversation soon began to trickle and flow and we found we had mutual music admiration for "The Drive by Truckers". We had a great time, Ian and his clients were a pleasure.
Thanks to Ian for sending me this article and allowing it's use here.

Last month I wrote about Liuwa Plain National Park in western Zambia, primarily because I was impressed by the effective work that African Parks is doing to regenerate the greater region and protect its biodiversity. But Liuwa stayed with me for another reason: it has a true sense of wilderness that seeps across those boundless plains and brings with it the wonderfull aura of solitude that comes from being in such isolated places. Although experiences such as this are becoming less accessible, they can still be found and Mozambique’s Niassa National Reserve is another excellent example. Situated in the far north on the border with Tanzania, it is the country’s largest yet least visited protected area, a substantial tract of wild land that is extremely remote, even in today’s world of convenient transport. Niassa covers 42 000 square kilometres, making it one of Africa’s largest conservation areas. It is also one of the most significant, lying as it does at the core of the Eastern Miombo Eco-region, and is central to plans for a transfrontier conservation area that will link it with the Selous Game Reserve in Tanzania, Lake Malawi and Mozambique’s northern coastal regions. This will constitute one of the largest conservation areas in the world. My first visit to Niassa was in March 1997. The arduous drive to Mecula in the middle of the reserve remains unforgettable, it took just over three days to cover 400 kilometres – but I was struck even more by the unique landscapes and the immense sense of space. The place has a rugged beauty dominated by outcrops of giant granite inselbergs that reach into the sky, and with numerous river systems defining the reserve’s layout, it is unlike any other region in southern or East Africa. On a recent return visit, the magnificent visual appeal and sense of space struck me just as much. But on this occasion I was able to spend a fair amount of time on the ground instead of being confined to the back seat of a small tail-dragger plane. This brought a very different perspective and got me thinking about the reserve’s future. It carries the largest populations of almost all mammal species found in Mozambique, including significant regional ones of wilddog, lion, sable and elephant. The bird list runs to more than 350 species and the plant diversity is such that the slopes of Mount Mecula have been designated a botanical hotspot. But aside from a large-predator project being conducted by Keith and Colleen Begg, no in-depth research has been carried out in Niassa and, given the number of different ecosystems, it is highly likely that many more plants and smaller creatures have yet to be found and named. It is a matter for concern that Niassa enjoys so little protection. Although it was established back in 1954, a series of civil wars resulted in the region and its biodiversity being neglected for more than 30 years. It is only since 2003, when the Mozambican government struck an agreement with Fauna & Flora International ( FFI ), that its status has begun to improve. But FFI ’s mandate is more about funding crucial research (such as the Beggs’ present work on carnivores) and promoting conservation and sustainability programmes among the 30 000 people living on the reserve’s borders than it is about policing. And policing is what is needed. Despite its wealth of biodiversity and strategic location for transfrontier conservation initiatives, Niassa faces many threats, the foremost among them being human–animal conflict and the subsequent killing of wildlife. Others include poaching for meat on a commercial scale, syndicates of ivory poachers and, in many regions, unsustainable subsistence fishing, harvesting and hunting practices. Given the nature of these challenges as well as the substantial size of the reserve and its conservation significance for the region, the government’s presence on the ground is ineffective and in no position to secure the sanctuary’s future. In the meantime, the development of a low-impact ecotourism industry can play a crucial stabilising role. Because of the reserve’s remoteness, this will take time to develop, but the government, NGO s and private operators should be encouraged to become involved at every opportunity. Two photographic lodges are currently open for business and they need support. For those in search of an awesome destination off the beaten track, I can highly recommend Niassa.

To join a trip to Niassa later this year, contact Africa Geographic Travelon tel. +27 (0)21 762 2180 or go to www.africageographictrave.coml
A F R I C A G E O G R A P H I C • A P R I L 2 0 1 0

Monday, July 26, 2010

On the Brighter Side, Educating the next generation, the Pemba International School visits the Reserve and Luwire Safaris



A brief report on the trip, I believe written by Derek or Paula.

The International School of Pemba (ISP) was invited by Luwire Safaris to pioneer an Educational trip to the Niassa Reserve. The upper grade students: Noorian, Aidan, Rayan, Iliescu, Goncalo, Nissa and their teacher Jesse came from the 1st to the 6th July to visit Block L7 in Niassa Reserve. A fantastic time was had by all, students, teacher and Luwire staff included.
The objective of the trip was to create awareness in the kids and community of Pemba to The Niassa Reserve, its operations and the conservation and anti poaching programs involved in the area. This event has been in our heads for many years and it was time to make it happen. The fee paid per child will go to a Mussoma community school project.

Most of these kids were born in Northern Mozambique but this was the first time that they had a real idea of the bush and indeed of the Niassa Reserve. Before the trip they were told to do research on the Reserve and its wildlife, on which very little information could be found. On the first day, the kids had an introduction to the Reserve, to the actual boundaries which have altered over the years, the management, the SRN’s role, the anti poaching activities, the blocks and their operations and finally the wildlife. The children were also asked to choose an animal and to produce five questions, and to write an article on their chosen animal, and also about the Reserve which will be published in their own Newspaper.
The Students flew by aircraft to Lugenda Camp where our team: Derek, Nic, Dave and Paula met them. From there, they began their 6 days of wilderness experience. They had the opportunity to visit Lusingi camp, to walk in the bush and to climb the Ngolonge inselbergs. They visited the Batwa paintings, travelled a short way down the beautiful Lugenda River in canoës and swam in the safe places. We preselected a camp site on top of an inselberg and they assisted with putting up a fly camp where they slept around the fire. On the last day, they visited Keith and Colleen Begg and learned about their research on honey badgers, lions and leopards. Guy Balm, a world authority on leopard behaviour, gave a extra little touch to the trip. On the shooting range the kids proficiency posed the question of what their fathers get up to in their spare time! Keith and Guy were intimidated out of a display when even little 10 year old Norain showed exemplary skill on the darting exercise!
Some of the subjects that they covered included ecology, animal and plant identification; they gained a great deal of extra information about each animal chosen with their searching questions to the specialists (Derek, Nic, Dave, papa and mama Nculi and Guy). They learned how to behave in the bush and on the river, read maps, and about the communities that live in the reserve. The guides and instructors were very impressed with the level of maturity shown by the students, as well as the humour and inquisitiveness displayed – in fact a number of questions were bloody difficult to answer! Sadly, one of the field lessons which had real impact was about the reality of commercial poaching.
During the same week the Reserve had a most depressing poaching situation. More than 10 elephants were killed for their ivory. We saw the opportunity to show the kids the atrocities that man commits for greed, as with the reality of where ivory that is sold daily in the streets of Pemba comes from. They were shocked and horrified by what they saw and each of them wrote few lines about their own feelings. The strongest sentences will be used to make a poster to be used in the airports and publics areas in Pemba and Lichinga. Perhaps the words of children will reach where sophisticated prose misses the mark.
We would like to thank the parents for having the confidence to entrust their little monsters to us, to Keith and Colleen Begg, who are always so willing to share their time and knowledge and to Guy Balme who also helped turn the day at Nculi Camp into something special. Jesse their teacher who immersed himself in the program whole heartedly, and indeed spent a sleepless night helping us recover an AK 47 and 3 poachers, and last but definitely not least, the students, for their inquisitiveness, fun and effort. For the compassion they showed for the plight of the poached elephants, they made our endeavour more than worth it. They are the budding custodians of this planet.

We would like to think that this is the first of an annual tradition that will become a feature students can look forward to in their final year at ISP. We also hope that through an educator such as Jesse we can offer a similar program to students within our block.




























I remember the first year I was in Mozambique Sandi my girlfriend then, now my wife, came over for several weeks and she volunteered to teach the children gymnastics at the school. Happy to see several of her students in these photos, a very cool bunch of young people. Hats off to all involved!

Friday, July 23, 2010

Sad News from Niassa





A few weeks ago there were over 20 Elephants poached in the reserve in one instance. I have heard the number at 21 and 23 but 1 is too much. Poaching is a problem all over Africa and has in the past few years been on the rise. Many reasons can be attributed to this rise in our area but it boils down to price and demand. China is in my opinion, and let me be perfectly clear this is my opinion! China is in our area one of the main reasons that poaching is on the upswing. I will elaborate on a later post but for now I just want to talk about what this means to me.
For me lately I have been on the road to becoming a bit "hunted out" as I put it. I love hunting and all that it involves especially in Africa. The trackers, the PH's the baits the skinners and of course the animals but for me the challenge of hunting wild game in Africa is becoming second to the challenge of preserving it. I 'm by no means a "big hunter". I have had the great fortune and pleasure to hunt a lot of places around the world and none so absolutely fulfilling as Africa. I owe a lot of my experiences to my friend Jeff McCollum who started dragging me along with him many years ago. He brought me to Africa for the first time and I will always appreciate him for that and more.
Another friend taught me and showed me the virtues of the Niassa Reserve and the dedication of those that fight for the respect this hunk of earth deserves especially within it's own country of Mozambique. Derek Littleton adopted me back when I was very new to the ways of Northern Mozambique and always showed me true friendship as I attempted to make sense of often times the senseless logic that is the way in Mozambique. Many others helped with my education there and I still have a lot to learn but Derek taught me something most important. Just to stop what I was doing occasionally and enjoy Africa. When you stand in the presence of such extreme mass and power that is the African Elephant you immediately feel the insecurity of that the small piece of ground your two feet occupy. Then he or she looks you up and down and hopefully concluding your no threat he or she continues with whatever things occupy an elephant during the course of a day. The same with the rest that live there, they come and go for the most part allowing your presence sometimes some times not, Occasionally they grant you a small stay and if your lucky they will allow you to observe some event that you will find both astounding and mesmerising. This event can't be described to others so as to achieve the same as seeing it for yourself and afterward you probably wont even try, no you just file it away for yours and yours alone, your little gift from somewhere special. This poaching thing is real, real guns, real animals, real blood, real death. Think about this small herd standing at mid day under a grove of trees, cooling themselves with the flap of their big ears. Young juveniles and newborns playing or laying asleep nearby and then they come with their AKs and in a matter of minutes twenty or more of these massive creatures lay dead, dying or wounded and the gunmen move around shooting the survivors on the ground in the back of the head. Many of the young have been paid no attention to during the shooting, they won't go far without their mothers and as they return or stand there beside their family members they are shot also. The tails and tusks are taken, cut and chopped out of the flesh and skulls and that's it. Some of the poachers are from local villages in partnership with men from Tanzania who bring the guns and connections to get the ivory out. There is a problem here. This act of poaching comes not because there are no anti poaching patrols prowling the bush in each hunting block and not because the Reserve itself isn't on alert and actively pursuing all avenues to alleviate the problem, really you will never stop all the poaching sometimes you have to let Africa be Africa in that some poaching comes about to feed a starving African. Most of this is small game, birds etc. but a lot more is for profit and as time goes by hopefully the education of the indigenous people will prove out to remedy these small problems with locals. What I am worried about is the presence of organized groups of foreign, well supplied and well armed, well connected poaching rings that are directly connected to the illegal exportation of ivory. This problem is moving into Northern Mozambique and the real problem is the almost none exist ant support from the national government. Here in lies the Rub. The government Headquarters of Mozambique is far to the south in Maputo. More and more news of mining for minerals and drilling for oil and gas comes out of the North. Could it be the Mozambique Government would just rather see the animals and the Reserve of the north just go away and in so doing open the gates to, well to progress? I am seeking the advice from others as to what I could do with my small network of friends, perhaps send letters to the various Government Ministers? I think pressure from our Government would help but even more some carefully written press spread across various Internet news venues might prove powerful. What do you think? let me know.

Wednesday, July 21, 2010

African wild dogs in Niassa Reserve, Mozambique

Niassa Carnivore Project






Niassa Carnivore Project



Introduction

Niassa National Reserve (NNR) is located in northern Mozambique on the border with Tanzania. It is one of the largest protected areas in Africa (42 000 km2) and is considered to be one of the “Last of the Wild” and most undeveloped places in Africa (WCS MegaFlyover and Human Footprint Project - Wildlife Conservation Society and Centre for International Earth Science Information Network, 2002).



Despite decades of war and neglect with only recent rehabilitation (2000), this extensive wilderness has survived largely intact (black rhino have disappeared). The protected area supports the largest concentrations of wildlife remaining in Mozambique including viable populations of the African lion, African wild dog, leopard and spotted hyaena. In addition these populations are linked to carnivore populations to the north in Tanzania (Selous Game Reserve) through the Selous – Niassa Wildlife Corridor. Rock art in the area shows that Niassa has always supported a human population and today more than 30 000 local residents live inside the protected area spread across 40 villages. Shifting subsistence agriculture is the primary land use and main economic activity. Cattle are absent due to tsetse fly, the vector for the disease trypanosomiasis, but smaller livestock, primarily goats and chickens, and domestic dogs are present in the larger villages.

The Niassa Carnivore Project (NCP) has been working in NNR since 2003 in close collaboration with SRN (The Society for the Development of the Niassa Reserve - the Management Authority of NNR), Niassa communities and tourism operators.

Through the work of the Niassa carnivore project, a population of more than 350 African wild dogs and 800-1000 lions have been identified in Niassa Reserve. As a result both lions and African wild dogs have been identified as a priority for research and conservation by SRN (the Management Authority of the Reserve). In addition NNR has been identified regionally as a priority for both lion and African wild dog conservation in eastern and southern Africa. The lion population is believed to be one of only five lion populations left in Africa that is currently increasing, with Niassa National Reserve a priority area for lion conservation while the Selous-Niassa trans-frontier wild dog population is the second largest wild dog population remaining in Africa. In addition, Niassa Reserve provides the core and source of largely unprotected lion and African wild dog populations extending from the east coast of Mozambique at Pemba to the western boundary with Malawi at Lake Niassa and extending 100 km southwards.



Aside from their conservation importance and status as flagships of Niassa, we believe that if we can secure these carnivore populations in the long term this will have broader biodiversity and social benefits for NNR and will go a long way towards securing NNR as a whole. The conservation of lions in particular touches on many of the major ecological and social challenges facing NNR at present and all these carnivores have the potential to generate significant revenues for communities and management of NNR through tourism initiatives. Grassroots community outreach and extension work will be fundamental to successful conservation efforts as the costs to communities living with large carnivores is significant through the loss of life, livelihoods and livestock. For example in the past eight years alone, 11 people have been killed by lion and 18 injured in the protected area and in 2008, a single male leopard killed 22 goats over a three week period in Mussoma village before being killed by the community. Similarly, there are currently serious threats to the large carnivores from people, including retaliatory killing as a result of human-carnivore conflict, indiscriminate snaring, the sport hunting of underage individuals (lion, leopard) and various disease risks, particularly rabies and canine distemper spread from domestic dogs. Successful sustainable conservation will require a multifaceted, collaborative approach that addresses both human and carnivore needs. The NCP pays particular attention to understanding human-carnivore conflict and developing, testing and finally implementing pragmatic and sustainable solutions in collaboration with Niassa communities. Emphasis on understanding the cultural role these carnivores play in the communities and reaffirming their cultural importance is considered vital. Targeted research and monitoring is essential to inform and monitor effective conservation activities however to ensure that monitoring is sustainable and ongoing and not researcher driven and important part of the project is to train selected NNR/ SRN staff and community scouts in relevant techniques and NNR is provided with detailed survey protocols as well as all the required equipment.

Photo courtesy of C.& K. Begg, Niassa Carnivore Project

In NNR, there is a unique opportunity to secure these populations and develop mitigation strategies before a crisis develops and support for conservation initiatives is eroded. However, the time for these actions is limited (less than 10 years) and if we do not act now this window of opportunity will close. NNR currently makes a significant contribution to the global conservation of all these carnivores largely due to its extreme size and remoteness, but the critical lack of resources faced by SRN and a rising human population inside the protected area with its associated increase in habitat transformation, human-wildlife conflict and poaching are an ever present threat.

The main goals of the Niassa Carnivore Project are:-

Use targeted research to specifically determine the status, density of and threats to lions, leopards, spotted hyaenas and African wild dogs in NNR and develop indicators and survey protocols that can be used for ongoing monitoring by local conservationists and SRN.
Examine the local contexts of large carnivore attacks, particularly by lions (humans, livestock) and identify, test and finally implement locally-derived, practical solutions with the active participation of local communities.
Develop and refine the Community-scout monitoring program to provide ongoing assessment of threats to carnivores, levels of human-carnivore conflict, and status of special species as well as provide incentives for community based natural resource management.
Assess and minimize the levels of disease risk (canine distemper, rabies, canine parvovirus) to African wild dogs and lions.
Collaborate with SRN and professional hunters to develop and implement locally developed sport hunting guidelines and trophy monitoring systems and providing independent monitoring of trophy quality for lion and leopard to ensure sustainable hunting while maximising economic returns to communities and SRN.
Initiate and manage community outreach initiatives (environmental education and extension work) in Niassa communities to promote the cultural, economic and conservation value of large carnivores and the use of effective conflict mitigation methods.
Ensure monitoring and conservation of carnivores in NNR is sustainable (not researcher driven) by providing appropriate training and mentorship, detailed surveying protocols and required equipment to NNR staff and local conservationists.
Disseminate the findings, mitigation strategies and protocols to inform broader national and regional conservation strategies and collaborate with local organisations wherever possible, including assisting and advising on Mozambican National Lion Conservation Strategy.
The Niassa Carnivore Project has a five pronged approach:

Targeted pragmatic research
Monitoring of threats and status
Direct mitigation of threats particularly human-carnivore conflict
Mentorship and training
Environmental education, awareness and community outreach
Targeted Research

Sound ecological and social research underpins all our activities, as we believe that only with a good local understanding of the issues can effective conservation be achieved. Intensive ecological research is focused in a specific study area situated along the Lugenda River. Our research activities include:

Radio-marking of selected lion and leopard with a combination of GPS and VHF radio collars to understand movement patterns, density, age structure, prey etc with a particular focus on the movements patterns of lion around villagers (why and when do they enter the village fields. At present, 6 leopard and 4 lion are radio-marked.
Disease analysis from blood samples in collaboration with Mozambican State Veterinary Department
Remote Camera trapping to determine the relative densities of different carnivores, density of leopard in hunted and non hunted areas, different habitats and around village fields to assess movement of problem animals.
Track and visual transects to assess prey density and relative densities of large carnivores.
Questionnaire surveys throughout NNR to assess human-carnivore conflict, cultural values, domestic dogs etc..
Lion and Spotted hyaena call-up surveys to assess density, age structure and changes in population structure over time (every three years).
Monitoring

Ongoing monitoring of the status of the carnivore populations and their threats is critical so that solutions can be implemented and a crisis is averted. However, this needs to be closely linked to mentorship and training to ensure this is not researcher driven but sustainable and an integral part of the management of the Reserve. Our monitoring activities include development of a Community Monitoring System (following the Namibian model of MOMS – Management Orientated Monitoring System) whereby community monitors are identified by traditional leaders in each village, they are trained by NNR staff at an annual meeting, are supported by the NCP and currently collect information on conflict events, sightings of special species (the community information provides the basis of monitoring of wild dog packs) and fishing activities. These community monitors provide an important link between reserve management and communities and are a way for communities to get actively involved in natural resource management. To date (2006-2008), 14 monitors from 13 villages have been trained. A NCP goal is for there to be 80% coverage of Niassa villages by community by end of 2010.

Direct Mitigation of threats

The Niassa Carnivore project works towards understanding the specific threats to the large carnivore populations in Niassa using targeted research and then finding pragmatic, sustainable locally based solutions in collaboration with communities and SRN. The main threats to carnivores in Niassa are listed in the table below:
Threat

Ranking

Comments

Inadvertent Snaring and poisoning

High

Snares set for ungulates for meat inadvertently catch carnivores

Human conflict - retaliatory killing

Medium

Loss of life, injury and stock losses

Sport hunting of underage individuals

Medium

Lion and leopard in trophy hunting concession in protected area

Disease - rabies and canine distemper

Medium

Spread from 200-300 domestic dogs resident in protected area

Targeted snaring for skin trade

Medium

Mainly for leopard, some lion

Road casualties

Low but increasing

Particularly wild dog, increasing as roads are upgraded

Traditional medicine

Low

All species

We are working to mitigate these threats in the following ways:

Supporting the vaccination and ongoing registration of domestic dogs inside the protected area boundary with development of zoning to prevent domestic dogs from spreading to villages where they are currently not present. Developing awareness material to protected people from rabies – posters, community meetings.
Using radio collaring to understand why large carnivores are entering villages and how this can be prevented
Testing ways to reduce warthog and bush pig damage in fields during the wet season as lions follow these favoured prey species into the fields and then come into direct contact with people.
Investigating carnivore attacks and identifying particular behaviours that place people and livestock at risk from attack (walking alone at night, sleeping outdoors, un-corralled goats). Communicating ways to minimize attacks to communities through village meetings, posters.
Developing of lion and leopard hunting sport hunting regulations for SRN that prevent hunting of underage animals (no lions under the age of six) and provide independent assessment and aging of trophies. This is linked to the development of visual aging characteristics that can be used by sport hunters to assess trophies accurately.
Supporting the NNR anti-poaching staff in NNR with equipment (GPS etc) and monitoring of snaring activities, investigation of alternatives.
Mentorship and Training

It is essential that carnivore conservation becomes and integral part of the management of NNR if it is to be sustainable in the long term and that it is not researcher driver .NCP provides training and mentorship to both NNR staff and local villagers. Our activities include providing NNR staff with direct field training on the project, providing NNR field staff with critical equipment where needed so they can work effectively (GPS, computer, binoculars, camera) and identifying and training local villagers as field assistants (GPS use, driving skills, radio tracking, basic car maintenance, trapping etc).

Education, Extension and Awareness

At present environmental education and extension work in Niassa communities is in its infancy. NCP reports information back to communities through local village meetings, posters and the community scouts. However the intention is to initiate more specific environmental education and a dedicated extension worker if funding can be found. NCP also disseminates information from the project to a broader Mozambican and international audience through scientific papers, presentations, assistance with national surveys, film, and popular articles.


PCT Grants

January 2009

The Trustees of The Predator Conservation Trust are pleased to be able to make a grant to the Niassa Carnivore Project in Mozambique. The grant is for £1000 and is intended to fund several things. The main part of the grant is for the work with the local community to reduce Human-Wildlife Conflict and includes Conflict Resolution Posters and Community meetings – conflict mitigation meetings and workshops. Another part of the grant is for Carnivore blood sample disease analysis. The final part of the grant is for general running costs, fuel etc.

Tuesday, July 20, 2010

Niassa Rock Art



Rock Art Paintings in the Niassa Reserve, northern Mozambique

Managed by the Sociedade para a Gestão e Desenvolvimento da Reserva do Niassa (SRN), the Niassa Reserve is vast and remote wilderness area of 42,000 sq km in northern Mozambique. There are approximately 25,000 people living inside the Reserve primarily from the Cyao and Makua tribal groups with some Ngoni, Marave and Matambwe people. Currently, Keith and Colleen Begg (the resident chief researchers) are studying carnivores along the Lugenda River in the Reserve.

While tracking one of the radiocollared lions in November 2005 they discovered what appeared to be paintings on the lower overhangs (north facing, 270m asl) of a large boulder which forms the end slope of a granite inselberg called Nkopola. The lion regularly rests in this spot in the shade of the boulder. Once the lion moved off they were able to investigate further. The paintings are primarily in an area of 0.5 x 0.5m with some additional marks on the south facing side (these might have been degraded as they are more exposed). Many of the paintings are parallel lines of fingertip sized dots, others are circles with three adjoining lines extending like fingers, or arcs of dots. They are primarily reddish in colour.

Radiocollared lions in the Niassa Reserve


Figures with additional lines and dots



The Beggs explored further in the immediate vicinity and found another site about 100 m away (283 asl), on the edge of a cave. These paintings are fainter but they appear to be two figures with additional lines and dots (red paint), there were also some fragments of pottery in the cave. The area is elevated above the surrounding Miombo woodland within 2 km of the Lugenda River. The boulder and associated small koppie system are unusual in this immediate area (although inselbergs are common) and Keith and Colleen could envisage why this area might be of spiritual significance as it is in a very special spot, and the boulder is an obvious landmark.


Large boulder at Nkopola


Niassa Reserve rock painting

Less than a kilometre away at the base of the same inselberg on the southeastern side is an old smelting site with slag remains of tuyeres and hundreds of fragments of pottery. The researchers have also found other smelting sites of a similar nature in the region, although these might date from a different time. When the Beggs asked some of the older local people who fish and honey-gather in the area about the paintings, they did not know anything about them but suggested the smelting site was probably the work of Ngoni people long ago.

Photographs by Keith & Colleen Begg/SRN
Sociedade para a Gestão e Desenvolvimento da Reserva do Niassa (SRN) www.niassa.com



www.bradshawfoundation.co